Giulia's Barlotto
A Chef's Recipe
This is not really a typical stolen recipe - mainly because Giulia gave it to me voluntarily - but it’s so delicious I thought I’d share it with you anyways. I initially interviewed Giulia for a Berlin based sustainable magazine called The Beam. The interview was accompanied by a low carbon-emission recipe. Here is a modified version of it that includes some meat. She always privileges less noble meat cuts like this beautiful bone marrow from Müritz. All the mushrooms come from Chido’s and all herbs come from Grünerei, both located in Berlin. As I mentioned in our conversation, Giulia’s cooking is just like her, full of warmth and comfort: this dish is its perfect representation.
"Giulia’s cooking is just like her, full of warmth and comfort: this dish is its perfect representation."
Recipe
for 4 servings
BARLOTTO
- 160 gr barley
- 1.1 L mushrooms stock
- 20 gr dry porcini mushrooms
- Fresh thyme
- 150 gr diced king oyster mushrooms
- 1 medium finely diced yellow onion (about 40 gr)
- 60 gr unsalted butter
BONE MARROW RAGU’
- 2 bone marrow (about 300 grams) – (Beef from Müritz, Germany)
- Bay leaf
- 1 diced carrot
- Diced celery
- 1 medium finely diced yellow onion (about 40 gr)
- 250 ml beef stock
- 250 ml red wine
- Olive oil
GREMOLADA
- 1 bunch of fresh parsley
- 3 tablespoon of chopped other herb such as fresh cilantro, rosemary, thyme, nasturtium, watercress, basil, chives, thyme
- 1 tablespoon of chopped capers
- Half shallot diced
- 1 tablespoon of lemon zest
- 100 ml extra virgin olive oil
- Salt
- Freshly cracked pepper
- Chilly flakes
BONE MARROW RAGU’
- Place bone marrow in a sous-vide bag with bay leaf, salt and extra virgin olive oil. Cook at 71C for 10 hours until the meat pulls off the bone.
- Chop the bone marrow meat with a knife and combine with diced carrots, onion, celery and beef stock to cover. Transfer to a skillet, cook over high heat until half of the juice is reduced and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
- Alternatively, braise the bone marrow in red wine. Preheat the oven to 200C. Choose a 6 cm roasting pan and warm a film of olive oil over medium heat. Brown the meat on both sides, then transfer to a dry towel. Pour off the fat and wipe the roasting pan clean. Set it over medium heat and add red wine and beef stock. Simmer until the liquid has reduced by half.
- Arrange the meat evenly in the braising pan. Distribute the bay leaves, diced carrots, onions and celery. Cover the pan with foil or tightly fitting lid. Place in the oven and cook until the bone marrow meat has just began to pull of the bone, usually 3 ½ to 4 hours.
- Take lid off and continue braising for 30 minutes circa. Once the meat is tender, chop it with a knife and combine again with vegetables and stock. If it’s still too liquid, reduce it over high heat until the braising juice becomes quite syrupy.
GREMOLADA
- Chop parsley with a knife and combine with other dry ingredients, salt, pepper and chilly flakes to taste.
- Add olive oil and stir until salt is dissolved into the mixture.
BARLOTTO
- Mushrooms stock: soak dry mushrooms in 1.1 L of water, for about 15 minutes. Add fresh thyme, and transfer to a sauce pan over high heat. Bring to boil, adjust to medium heat and let it simmer for 30 minutes. Drain the liquid and set aside. Chop porcini mushrooms with a knife.
- Coat a skillet with olive oil and add fresh mushrooms, salt lightly and cook until they color slightly, about 4 to 6 minutes. You should just begin smelling their nutty aroma. Remove from heat, cover and set aside.
- Warm half of the butter on the same skillet, add diced onion with a pinch of salt and let them “sweat” over medium heat. Cook, stirring regularly, until the onion are tender and translucent. Add the barley and stir until the grains are warm and coated with fat. Add about one third of the stock, the mushrooms and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring regularly, until the stock has been absorbed. Continue adding stock gradually, checking for tenderness of the grain as each addition is absorbed. It should take between 30 to 40 minutes for the barley to became tender.
- Take off the heat and add the remaining butter. Let this rest for a few minutes.
- Plate on a bowl and garnish with bone marrow ragu, gremolada and fresh herbs.
Words
Photography
Brittany Wolf